Notes From Trip to Jerusalem

Flying BA Club Class

Having saved up my AVIOS from Tesco shopping, it did not cost many more points to travel overnight from London Heathrow to Jerusalem in Club Class. Doing this for the second time, I noticed how one or 2 orthodox Jewish men were again in club class, while their wives and possibly family went economy. One assumed this was due to rules of modesty, particularly lying down near strangers. However, a more economic reason may be behind this. The allowance of 3 hold cases of up to 32Kg giving 96Kg applies on the way back even returning economy under mixed cabin rules. Nice one.

West Jerusalem, November 2015 

Sporadic, unprovoked knife knife attacks inevitably make one a little cautious. Maybe people are eyeing each other down a little more and check who is behind them from time to time. The odd soldier or group of soldiers at bus stops and certain key corners is a comfort. On the leafy side streets, everything seemed normal at night. Young women jog with ipods and children go out to friends. I only spotted one grey bearded gentleman in a black coat holding a pair of scissors, just in case. So life goes on, especially were the populace is ever ready for potential conflicts.

Underground Prisoners Museum, Russian Compound, West Jerusalem

A real British Men's Prison from 1918 to 1948 housing all comers. No other visitors on a quiet November morning. Cells, games of backgammon, profiles of those executed, the governors room with union flag and tea set, the exercise yard and the gallows. Only restored and opened to the public in in 1991, a new venue for yours truly.  


Masada and the Dead Sea

Having not been to either Masada or the Dead Sea for around 25 years, it was time to renew old acquaintances. 40 Kilometers down hill from Jerusalem and the temperature rises to about 28 Celsius due to the micro climate over 400 metres below sea level. The first thing noticeable since my last visit is the significant retreat of the water edge, and the sinkholes emerging adjacent to the road, even causing diversions. The sea was a long way off, and apparently retreating 3 feet a year. Hopefully the 2013 agreement between Israel, Jordan and the Palestinian Authority for laying a water pipeline to link the Red Sea with the Dead Sea will revive this remarkable lake before it might dry up altogether.

Masada these days looks like a tourist site with a museum, dining areas and a modern cable car at its base. Although this loses some of the romance, it makes it a lot easier for visitors and tourists to enjoy a day out with creature comforts. The cable car journey is nearly a kilometer,about four time the distance of the famous snake path. Having walked up Roman ramp to Masada to see the sunrise many moons ago, I had paid my dues.

The View form the top of Masada is spectacular, although the sandy air meant the the hills of Jordan were obscured.The ruins have undergone further partial restoration, with the original remains bordered by black lines. The history of Herod's Winter Palace and the heroic siege a hundred years later give the place character and purpose.

Favourite Vegetarian Eateries

I will give a name to my two favourites for non carnivours. There may be better places somewhere, but these 2 got my Vote:

Village Green, 32 Jaffa Street. Organics, whole grains, legumes, yummy deserts.  

Shosh Cafe, Keren Kayemmet 31 in Rehavia. The Fatoush Salad (5% feta cheese) is a favourite, especially sitting at an outside watching the world go by.





         

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